730 breakfast and on the bus by 0830. First stop the Mosque of Hassan II, newest mosque and second only in size to the great mosque at Mecca. It is visible from a distance but upon arrival on the bus, it was grand and dominating. Very beautiful. The domed walls are a portal to a huge square, tiled in marble and able to accommodate 100,000 worshipers. The building is constructed on reclaimed land jutting out 30% over the sea.
Unlike other mosques, it is accessible to non-Muslims. First removing our shoes, we entered to discover a breathtaking interior, both in terms of size and elaborate decoration. Marble floors, substantial carpet, decorative walls and round granite columns from Italy. Venetian glass chandeliers weighing 500g dangle from the ceilings. The lights are cleaned twice per year on special occasions when the King will be in attendance. The entire area is serviced by a staff of 200 and there are seven prayer sessions daily, with visiting hours conveniently slotted in between. The floor below contains the ablution area as washing before prayer is an essential prerequisite. The published cost for the building is US $800M (but likely a quarter of the true cost according to the guide) Funding from the king 33% and donations the rest.
From there we drove on up the coast line to the capital, a beautiful and pristine city called Rabat. (Population around 2 milliion). There are trees, lawn and parkland, all lush, green and beautifully maintained. After Casablanca I think we were all very surprised. Whitewashed buildings are immaculately presented and a very high standard. No graffiti. Roads are excellent and the traffic seems relatively sane. This is a complete contrast to Casablanca. Very liveable. We had lunch here before proceeding to the Medina, the walled city within the city, by the sea. This city is stunning with wonderfully maintained stone walls for the fortress walls. The history is complex, with Berbers, Moors, Romans and Jews all a part of the intricate interwoven past and present. Too much to try to cover here and besides I couldn't do it justice. We had a local guide who was brilliant and I think we all came away from it with a general gist from an historical perspective. We stopped here for a complimentary mint tea (another one) and got to sample some local sweet delicacies. Really delicious. Then over to an unfinished mosque and king's mausoleum and a couple of photos with some of the local guards before continuing on the bus.
A two and a half hour drive through green fields and across hills. There is grape, olive, wheat, sheep and cattle. Did I mention cork? We entered the city of Meknes and stopped opposite a crowded market place road. Walking through the market was an experience in itself. There was a monkey performing tricks, a man holding a snake and of course lots of merchandise for sale. We continued for 5 minutes before arriving at a hotel (Riad Ritaj) which is a converted house, very ornate and grand, fabulously authentic and rises 4 storeys high. The centre of the building follows the traditional architecture of the region, the top of which is adorned with stained glass. The centre of the ground floor is marble with a fountain in the centre. Detailed filigree is along the posts and walls to there ceiling, and looks amazing with its detailed carving we were told was from Moorish influence. Before heading up to our rooms, we were welcomed to the hotel in the foyer with mint tea (second time today!).
Our bedroom is on the second floor and is decked in traditional style, with a carved timber ceiling, carved bedhead and painted wardrobe doors. Above our floor is the roof area with views across the city, perhaps the highest spot in the old part of the town. Interesting looking out over some rather fascinating architecture and beyond, as per the photo below.
We wandered 5 minutes through the narrow lane to a private family home where we were treated to a home made meal of tajines, including servings of vegetables, chicken and beef. The traditional style of slow cooking in pottery really enhances the flavour of the food. It was delicious. Followed by .... I'm sure you can guess! More mint tea, the third today!!! Yes, they really do like their mint tea! Also cookies and watermelon. It was unique to experience the local way of life and how they entertain. On our way back to the hotel, negotiating narrow lanes between market stalls we entered a silversmith area and Jenny negotiated a great price for a small metal ornamental plate with silver inlay. I think the vender/silversmith wasn't too unhappy either. So a total win-win situation. A treasure to remember a fabulous experience. And she did receive a genuine thank you from our guide for helping the local artisans!
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