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Writer's pictureJenny Waraker

Chefchaouen 5.06.23 (Day 3)

Updated: Jun 13, 2023

Breakfast at our hotel before a 0930 start on foot. A local guide took us through the old walled section of the city of Meknes (the medina). A curious but nice fact that he explained was that from the outside, the buildings are all similar in appearance so that wealth is not recognised and residents can feel equal. Other reasons were also mentioned, but that was the most important. Interesting also, the lane system within the medina is deliberately confusing to the uninitiated. Historically, if there was a raid there was no clear track to the centre. Learning to navigate the area takes a long time, with many dead end lanes to exacerbate the confusion and trap the invaders. Within the area are many small mosques allowing worshippers to access one within three minutes and quickly return to work.

Out of the old medina and into the newer one, is the much bigger mosque with the shrine of Moulay Ismail, for the interred bodies of their king and family. It is magnificent and so precisely built. There is a semi circular indent in one wall that orients Mecca and is for use by the mufti where he is able to be for quiet prayer. The semi circular nature of the wall magnifies his voice to ensure he is heard by all.


We then were taken on our mini bus to an old Roman city called Volubilis which had been destroyed in an earthquake in the 1700s. The 'picnic' lunch we were promised turned out to be bread rolls with meat, chicken or cheese and tomato for the vegetarians in a cafe at the ruins. And yes, it included mint tea. We had another local and very knowledgeable guide to walk us through the ruins. It was all very interesting, having been a city of 35,000 residents. Of course the edifices built with rock slabs, had not survived the earthquake and upon discovery, much reconstruction has taken place with some use of bricks to 'fill in the gaps'. As the guide mentioned, the Romans did nothing by chance. The location was strategically chosen for the climate. Perfect for growing wheat and other specific crops. It was fascinating but very exposed and hot. I think by the time we finished we had all had enough.


Next, a long nearly 4 hour drive to a beautiful town high in the Rif Mountains, by the name of Chefchaeoun. It is reputed to be one of the world's prettiest cities. We travelled amongst farms and orchards. Wheat, chick peas, hay, olive, cattle, sheep and goats. Plus many donkeys beside the road, some grazing, some carrying loads for farmers. The area is clearly fertile, across many hills. We stopped for a comfort break at a pretty little restaurant about one hour before our destination. Coffee, local sweet delicacies and 2d fee for the use of the toilet. No toilet paper. Back on a road in a state of disrepair (pot holes, deterioration along the sides). Hence the vehicle speed rarely exceeded 60kph. Of course, we had a good driver. Many police were out with radar but drivers warned other drivers with the universal system of flashing the head lights. Overtaking vehicles was limited by the number of vehicles (particularly trucks and vans) heavily laden with fire wood or vegetables and travelling slowly. One van filled with water melons had a passenger spread in X format at the rear holding onto the roof and bumper. (I know someone took a photo, will post it if I can.)


Arriving in town, we were struck by the amount of blue, and wondered if perhaps there had been a special deal on the one colour paint. When we quizzed our tour guide, he explained "There is a reason, you will find out tomorrow." We simply have to be patient. Our accommodation is a hotel in an elevated position in town. Behind us are some massive mountains, steep and sheer granite with about 50% vegetation. A mosque sits high on the hill, overlooking the town, a 20 minute walk up so we are told.


Leading to the hotel is a pretty entry which conceals the beautiful design of the courtyard that follows. Guess what we were welcomed with! I'm sure you guessed! Mint tea! Then off to our rooms. The rooms are all lovely, but vary in size and standard. Ours is somewhere in the middle, not the smallest, not the most elaborate. It has a lounge adjoining the bedroom with king bed (so comfy!!!) a bathroom down a hallway and two decks overlooking the pool to the left and town to the right. We are very satisfied.


We ate in the hotel restaurant. We sat inside as another group had reserved the garden seating. A separate upstairs restaurant is for brekky. The swimming pool, up some stairs and through the garden, is large and inviting. We have a two night stay here. Tomorrow is a guided tour of the blue city Medina before a 'free time' afternoon and dinner. A good opportunity to kick back, catch up on washing and maybe squeeze in a swim.


Inside the Medina (walled city)

Just 'hanging out' at the king's mausoleum




Our turn to have the front row of seats in the bus

The old Roman ruins




Roman ruins


On the road - driving to Chefchaouen

Hillside town on the way to Chefchaoeun

Arrived at our destination - Chefchaoeun. The boy was not going to move for the photo so ended up in it

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Guest
Jun 06, 2023

Looks fascinating. In Indonesia they paint things blue as it is supposed to help keep mosquitoes away. There are strong links with the Arab world so will be keen to know if that’s the same reason there.

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Jenny Waraker
Jenny Waraker
Jun 06, 2023
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The tour guide said he has read on the internet different ideas as to why the blue paint is used including to help keep the mosquitoes away. Since he was born and raised in Chefchaouen I guess he knows what he is talking away. Cheers D

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