Departure from our hotel this morning was anything but elegant. The owner has two security doors on the front, the second being opened by a key accessed through a vertical trap door. Even when we had some success only half the door could be opened which meant removing packs and taking everything out one at a time.
Across the road again to the bar, where at 0600 the same local drinkers were congregating. Breakfast was nice and pleasingly Eric turned up, having walked some distance to see us and say his farewells. He ends his Camino today, with a deadline to be in Merida in time to catch a lift to Madrid and a flight home this evening. Cutting it fine!!! We chatted and walked together for a distance before he took off.
Walking today was a pleasure except for one thing. My ankle/calf suffered from constantly negotiating the stony terrain. It didn't help that at the commencement of the day, a water course that was impassable without getting wet meant we had to clamber up a steep embankment to the highway to avoid being stuck with wet soggy boots for the remainder of the day.
The surrounds were mainly rough areas between two major highways and a train line. When it came time to cross the train line, I did a quick mental calculation as to how quickly one of the VFTs would approach and wondered if we’d even hear it. They travel up to 150kph. Figured the risk was minimal since one had just passed - unlikely another one would be any time soon. Over the train line, along the original bitumen highway (minimal traffic), before dropping to a plain land where the crops started again. This time barley, but also lucern and wheat. There were some aged olive trees but even here there are many newly planted grape. Jenny and I walked in bliss enjoying the quiet and cool of the morning. The track we followed was along a dirt farm track which had some rutting and in places rock, each of which was not kindly towards my leg.
We sat for a while beneath a grove of eucalypt and enjoyed the serenity of the moment, indulging in chips and chocolate (having completely depleted other supplies), washed down with a couple of gulps of water. As we sat, we looked down towards Merida, where we intend to spend two nights. (I should mention here that Merida is the capital of the Autonomous Community of Extremadura.) We look forward with anticipation to exploring its history, particularly Roman, visigoths and Muslim influence.
The walk into town was straightforward although a bit messy, a bit dusty and growing increasingly warmer. Then close to a beautiful river we came across a community of geese and drakes with about 40 goslings which was a delight. It influenced us to take a break beside the river while we enjoyed a little taste of nature at its very best.
Entering town was via the longest Roman bridge still in existence (Puente Romano - 790 m). It is amazing. It spans the river with huge granite slabs and bluestone bricks for the roadway. It is wide enough for two cars although is pedestrian traffic only. To see something this old, so massive and so perfectly built, and still completely solid, beggars belief. Across the bridge are the walls of the Alcazaba, built by the Muslims. Also very amazing.
We walked to the top of town and were pleasantly surprised by the beautiful buildings and the many town squares and shops. A refreshing shower at our accommodation, Jenny sprayed my aching leg and I slept, before venturing back out at about 1800 hrs. (A relief to be able to buy more leg spray from a pharmacy 100m away. Not sure of the spray's active ingredients but it works a treat!)
A short walk from our accommodation, we turned a corner and were absolutely blown away by an enormous Roman ruin which looked to me to resemble the pantheon in Rome (which of course I have never seen). The structure is the temple of Diana built in the first century AD, initially part of the Roman Forum, then integrated within a 16th century palace. So a double whammy of history right there! It is a jaw dropping sight, largely so well preserved. A little further on we visited the Alcazaba castle wall, and a short way on from there, a square with a fountain Jenny just loved, and was obsessed with photographing for an eternity.
Being late Sunday afternoon, the entire downtown is fast filling with locals all nicely groomed, just wandering, sitting, chatting and enjoying socialising. The sense of community is inspiring.
Then back to our room for a break and a sleep in a comfortable bed (five star luxury!!!) and using a large shower where the hot water comes immediately. Good night!
Love the bridges