Day 13 Cruce de las Herrerias 19.04.23

A great rest in an outstanding accommodation. Highly recommend Casa Rural La Plata! Out the door around 0700 and down 100 metres to the ‘kiosk’ for breakfast. No menu option of course so coffee, OJ and toast. There were many new pilgrims arriving, none of whom we had seen before but there is an Albergue somewhere here. By 0800 we were on our way down the main street and heading north once again. An elderly gentleman was ahead of us, decked for travel in his wide brim hat decorated extensively in Camino badges, immaculate backpack and dragging his walking poles, showing no intent on making good time, just being in the moment. A wonderful sight. The other pilgrims today were 40ish and showed a high level of fitness as they strode out. All men. Needless to say they all passed us on our route. Initially for several kilometres we trekked east which was a bit awkward with the rising sun, but nevertheless picturesque.

It was particularly cold this morning, glove weather. The sun had not yet risen although there was plenty of subdued pre-dawn light. We followed the road across an old Roman bridge with all the Roman tell tales, and off on a country road beginning double lane but fairly soon a single dirt lane in perfect condition for walking.

At this point Jenny lagged behind in order to capture some of the beautiful sounds of the birds chirping in the new day. So I walked on alone and the solitude brought a new perspective. Peace, serenity, bliss. It was a unique and overwhelming experience.

I passed, ever so briefly, a wheat crop but other than that, all evidence of human intervention quickly disappeared. The track was constantly an incline but pleasantly so. Grassland, trees, creeks, huge boulders featured in the outlook. And all that could be heard were the birds and my footsteps. This was a couple of hours of tranquility and very special.

Throughout the remainder of the day the only farming activity was cattle, and they were friendly. Not long after Jenny rejoined me we reached a turning point, which signalled a perfect time for a quick break with an orange and a few bars of chocolate. Then, surrounded by inquisitive cows, we ventured forth, crossing a river via a “bridge” of large concrete blocks strategically placed as pilgrim’s stepping stones. Then through closed gates, across cattle grids and along a severely degraded road. Initially the bushland was picturesque, hills, valleys, trees and grassland all framed in colourful wildflower, particularly lavender.

Then the track deteriorated significantly. The climb became relentless and the road remained uneven and stoney, making walking difficult. We kept rising for many kilometres by now through monotonous high weedy plants which hid the outlook and made the journey less appealing. It was necessary here to concentrate carefully on the track for loose rocks and other trip hazards. A final hard hill for about one kilometre brought us to what I imagine we could call the beginning to the village, but the next kilometre was uninspiring, largely attributable to the rapidly increasing heat and dust. There were few arrows now or direction signage. Our freshness long gone, we trudged on until finally we found our hostel. A truly unique experience which I could only do justice in verbal conversation over a bottle of red wine! Our bedroom is wide enough for two short single beds, but only just and not side by side, only length ways. A shared bathroom. Ask Jenny about the ‘Ladies’ bathroom. Clearly this is not a place that ladies frequent. It is patronised by men, seemingly brought in on heavy duty work / excavation contracts. Say no more!

I have to say, lunch was good. The restaurant was completely packed - every table - with working men (not women) and I had mushroom omelet, croquets with salad and lemon flan, with a large beer, for the princely sum of $EU11. A very affordable place. This was a set price which included a three course meal and drink, no matter what you ordered.

Tomorrow is another day.