Just a quick note first to explain the occasional delay in the blogs. Sometimes we have wifi and it's very good. Sometimes it's even exceptional. Sometimes we have no wifi and sometimes we might as well have no wifi. It's hit or miss from day to day. Most probably corresponds with how much we've paid for our night's accommodation.
This morning as I woke I was amazed at the transformation in my body. After such a gruelling day, how incredible is the human body that it can recover so effectively from a good night's sleep. I had commented to Jenny yesterday that I was so utterly spent, even if this was a grand final I could not achieve another tackle. But here we are the following day, eager and ready to take to the field once more.
On the way out of town we had breakfast at a neat little bar just up from our accommodation. A number of other pilgrims were there as well, but none whom we saw throughout the remainder of the day. Brekky was just the normal stuff, but it was the first time they did not have 'jamon', so it was toast and pate for me and marmalade for Jenny. And cafe con leche of course. No more fresh orange juice as we move further north. But just starting the day with some coffee and toast in the belly feels so good.
Onwards we went, feeling optimistic about the day ahead. We struck a steep hill up a rocky trail immediately upon our exit from town. From a distance this section had been clearly visible, and Jenny and I had joked that the Camino would undoubtedly go this way, but really we thought it more likely a track used by dirt bike adventurers on weekends to take their bikes and themselves to the limits. Not so!
Unexpectedly on reaching the crest it was the top of the hill. We were surrounded on each side by pine forest that provided shade and gave an ambience of quiet and subtle light while decanting their nettles to the path providing a velvety softness on which to walk. The beauty did not end there but progressed to groves of cork trees. These continued for some kilometres. Some of the trees had recently been harvested with their outside bark removed up to the low branches. Under the cork layer the tree is left with a charcoal grey fine bark. The appearance of these trees was almost ghostly in the early light of day and as we gazed upon our mystical surroundings, we identified masses of green grassy patches beneath the shady cork trees perfect for a picnic. What a difference a day makes. Then the forests turned to pasture with good grass and very contented cows. We progressed through a number of gates and across little streams which obviously become much bigger streams in times of rain, in view of the substantial crossings provided.
We met up with the three men from previous days (Tom, Jim and Javier) as they sat beneath a shady tree enjoying a rest break. Strangely enough, at the very time we approached them, they were on the phone to an accommodation booking agent. They had called regarding accommodation for themselves and at that very moment of our arrival, the agent had asked if they had seen us, with the intention of passing on information. What a weird coincidence and nice to have things sorted out prior to our arrival in town.
We also met up with the lovely Dutch lady, Marian, as she rested over lunch under a shady tree on a perfectly shaped rock. Excitedly she told us that she had seen a rare white orchard a couple of kilometres back. Eventually I excused myself from the conversation and moved on, leaving Jenny to chat. I had wanted to take the opportunity to keep moving to avoid a late afternoon arrival. But I had only walked a kilometre or so when I came to the turnoff to our accommodation town. As luck would have it there was a perfect shady tree with my name on it, right beside the gate. So I set my backpack against the tree and lay back to wait. Probably half an hour passed before Jenny arrived and we completed the final 4km into town together.
The track downhill towards the town became a dirt road which improved over the distance. But it also tracked between stone fences for two kilometres which was an incredible sight. We even found a white orchid in a paddock, probably more keenly alert to them following our conversation with Marian. Jenny continued to talk to the animals and they seemed amazed anyone would take the time. Crossing a hill ridge the area ahead opened up to a full vision of irrigated and cropped farms as far as we could see. So unexpected and colourful.
We settled into our lodgings, and as it turned out, the three men and also Marian all stayed in the same casa. We had the luxury of washing our clothes in a proper washing machine, hung them outside to dry and really appreciated the clean fresh smell of 'just washed' clothes. Then a bottle of wine and snack food. We had declined a dinner invitation from the little pilgrim group tonight, wishing to just relax by ourselves this evening. Bed for me was early, about 7.30. Not sure when Jenny succumbed but I know she is tired too. Hard to do proper dinners when the eating houses don’t serve until 2030hrs.
Love the tree in the first photo. Keep trudging!
The scenery looked lovely today. I have also been amazed on my Camino's how quickly the body recovers.
Really enjoying all the photos.
Thank you and take care.