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Writer's pictureJenny Waraker

Day 20 Carcaboso 26.04.23




The alarm sounded at 5:30 and Jenny scurried from bed. I elected to utilise a couple more minutes of sleep. When I woke again Jenny was dressed, her backpack done and all the housework complete. Oops! Breakfast in our apartment and off we went. Jenny had voiced her concern about a post warning of a heat wave today and for the next couple of days. Advice is Seville will experience a spike close to 39C. For us, being further north, it will be less severe but nevertheless a concern. Cloud Friday will be a reprieve. But we aim to walk early and finish early. (Or take a taxi!)


Our departure started well but deteriorated rapidly (only briefly.) A wrong turn added distance to our day, but could have been worse. The trail is poorly marked in many places. But we trudged on, mostly flat to begin with. At a section of crossroads there was nothing for it but to ask a local, who set us straight and off we went. We walked along a back road, passing large farms with ploughed fields and watering systems. (The drains around the place are part filled with running water so imagine there must be springs.) Some time later we still had not passed a single arrow and assumed we must have missed (another) turn, when suddenly there it was! A yellow arrow, reaching out to us from the street sign ahead. Yes!!!!


An 11 kilometre walk brought us to Galisteo, a village in a very rural area sitting atop a steep hill and encased in a substantial stone wall, and a stone church. An amazing village, no idea what keeps the inhabitants entertained, but noted a significant number of older residents. The outlook from the ramparts is clearly why the fort was built here. No sneaking up. While inside the village of Galisteo we came upon the three guys (Tom, Jim and Javier) who it seemed had experienced similar issues to us (lack of satisfactory signage.) No sooner had they moved on when Marian appeared, so we enjoyed a decent chat with her over a cup of cafe con leche and tortilla de patatas.


While in Galisteo, we located a pharmacist to look at a “rash” on my legs. The concern was that it may be a reaction from the spray I have been using to alleviate the pain in my calf. The pharmacist suggested, through my interpreter Jenny, the rash is related to heat. So it seems I probably don’t need anything but a cooler climate. And hopefully that’s coming as we venture further north and into the mountains. Never thought climbing a mountain would be so appealing.


A Roman bridge to leave the town, yet another example of two thousand year old engineering still in use today. More farmlands and streams and increasing heat. Arrived at our 'fancy' hostel accommodation and found it very much to our liking. The young lady in the bar below is bright and enthusiastic and lovely with a wide friendly smile (although we did notice she was starting to wane towards the end of the day about 8pm when we fronted up for dinner.)


We took time in the late afternoon to explore some of the town while we checked for arrows to facilitate our morning's departure. An intriguing theme throughout the village of old movies / film stars. What a novel (that is 'movie') approach. The theme continued indoors as well, with Lauren Bacall watching over us as we ate our dinner.


A nice town, with obviously a strong community spirit.


Leaving Riolobos - Feliz Viaje (Happy journey!)



Arriving at Galisteo






Birds? Alfred Hitchcock


Even Shirley Temple




Roman columns

Found our yellow arrow for our departure in the morning

Our lovely hostel





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Guest
May 01, 2023

love the frescos

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