We woke this morning with a strong sense of exhilaration and anticipation, knowing that we were nearing the end of our time in Extremadura and about to embark on a whole new province. The evidence was immediately before our eyes. The mountains that previously had appeared so distant were so close we felt we could almost reach out and touch them. And they were green. And lush. And the air temperature was absolutely ideal. The other reason for our excitement was knowing we were heading to a special place, famous for its Roman baths and thermal springs. And that it was so very close! Banos de Montemayor!
Of course none of that stopped us from taking a wrong turn on our Camino, almost immediately. Our guide book cautioned us against misdirections, and we were caught regardless.
We took off up the hill beside the town and turned right instead of left. A helpful local marched us back down the hill, directing us to the Camino sign, which was obscured by grass. I'm sure he's done it a thousand times before but he yanked at the grass to expose the Camino block and we were away! After lots of profuse "Muchas gracias! Muchas gracias!"
Walking was by the road but the traffic and size of verges make the trek ok. Found a coffee shop after 5 km, then on another ten kilometres to the loveliest town we have visited, but which gets scant mention in our Camino books. It was certainly the prettiest village yet that we've walked into, with lots of quaint little streets, cafeterias and local tourists! Yes, many people!
It was here in the village of Banos de Montemayor that we experienced the luxury of soaking in a 2000 year old Roman bath. What can I say!? It was a solid hour at least before we finally emerged, relaxed, refreshed, rejuvenated. Very few others were in our pool and for most of the time we actually had it to ourselves. The water was warm but not hot. From the walls was a number of spa outlets which we both enjoyed, and for me the jet propulsion on my sore leg was therapeutic and beneficial. Mere coincidence you might scoff, but the next day and thereafter there has been virtually no pain in the leg. Wonderful time spent in the baths. We were given bath robes and head bathing cap and of course there was showering before and after.
We then enjoyed time in the museum, which had on display excavated old baths, money and other relics. Fascinating stuff. Lunch was easy, outside in the garden, under some very shady birch trees, served by a bar restaurant from across the road.
We were so relaxed and content that the time just slipped away and with 10km ahead of us, we wholeheartedly agreed the occasion warranted a taxi. (After all, we're here to enjoy ourselves, right!?) And lucky we did. On arrival at our pre-booked accommodation the landlady was adamant we had no booking. Very adamant! Out with the phone and email proof and we had a very embarrassed lady (super embarrassed and ashamed!) but nevertheless no rooms available. Frantic phone calls ensued from the landlady to every possible place she could think of, but there was no vacancy anywhere in the area! The poor lady was beside herself with anxiety and guilt. Eventually she rang further afield and we ended up with the accommodation that we had booked for tomorrow night. The taxi driver was far too amused by the antics to leave so was available to drive us onwards to our new destination.
It was not a good pick. (Well, our downstairs dungeon at least. The inmates upstairs were overjoyed with their lot.) Overpriced for what it was - low ceilings, squeaky beds, foam mattresses, flannelette sheets, and no towels (probably an oversight as they hadn't planned for us tonight).
There was no wifi (again!). We trotted down to the local bar for a drink but really hopeful of accessing just a little bit of wifi. (It's so difficult to confirm the next day's acommodation without wifi.) But when we asked the barman he laughed and pulled out his phone to demonstrate the lack of internet in the entire town. Funny thing though, walking out afterwards we came across the two Dutch ladies that we had met on Day 1 out of Seville. Such a coincidence in this tiny obscure little village. On we walked and minutes later there was Tom, Jim and Javier, who had caught public transport to propel themselves further along the Camino. And then just minutes later, there was Isabelle (also from our first day out of Seville.) And no, they were not actively travelling together. The Camino can play some strange tricks at times.
We later chatted with Arnold, a cyclist doing the Camino (from Switzerland / Netherlands), and Leanne (another pilgrim) from Perth and had a pleasant evening outside in the courtyard beside the clothes line in conversation.
With our bookings now wrong, we are a day ahead of where we have planned to be. A bit of a concern as in places there are just no rooms available. Leanne commented she was unable to secure accommodation and as a consequence will catch a bus directly to Salamanca in the morning. Similar stories from Ben and Anneke as well as Marian, all of whom are pulling the pin on their Camino when they reach Salamanca due to frustrations of lack of accommodation as well as heat.
But we are happy. We go to bed tonight with the very pleasant knowledge that tonight is the first night in our third province - Castilla & Leon.
how wonderful to enjoy an authentic Roman bath. Shame about the accomodation situation.