There were just two pilgrims we saw throughout our day of walking, the two Dutch women we had been with on day 1 from Seville. They walked from Morille and we saw them briefly, but then they disappeared from sight. Isabelle would have been out there somewhere, but is limping slowly since she hurt her foot. She'll make it in her own good time.
The way ahead towards the north shows Salamanca in the distance, a very sizeable city. The cathedrals protrude from the skyline. The total distance is just short of 25 km. The last 10 km were not difficult, but a bit of a trudge through flat land with crops, with no shade. One guide book describes this section as monotonous.
Many cyclists (all ultra fit) were out and about. These really are great tracks for cycling. And there was one beautiful black stallion. Stunningly gorgeous. There have been so many beautiful horses along the way. The owner/rider obligingly pulled his 'pride and joy' into a suitable pose position for a photo shoot. He proudly described his wonderful animal as 'guapo'.
Pleasingly today, like yesterday, is much cooler so the walking was nice. But it was one of those classic Camino days. Walk as we did, the city did not seem to be getting closer. We climbed three more hills and from the top of the third and final the city appeared close, about 5 km away. So close but still so far. A cross stood at the top, similar to the Cruz de Ferro on the Camino Frances. Finally we were in the city, not too far from the old town and we entered by crossing yet another old Roman Bridge, not the size of the one in Merida but nevertheless lovely.
I found a perfect perch close to the cathedral while Jenny headed inside to acquire stamps in our pilgrim credentials. On the way out she took a photo of part of the decorative feature beside the entrance - an area of stone, carved, with various components all applicable and relevant to the era of construction. All bar one!!! In amidst the busy 'filigree-style' carvings is what appears for all the world to be an astronaut. Think about that for a moment or two. The carving dates back about 800 years.
The buildings are all old, all grandiose and all magnificent. The city is a university city so as one might expect, lots of young people. Lots of tourists also, but not so much English speaking ones. Many cafeterias and other services seem to lack English speaking staff (from our brief experience). Today being a public holiday, we'll have to wait till tomorrow to see if the multitudes reflect a typical day in the heart of the old town, or if it is just an isolated inundation.
Our accommodation is in Plaza Mayor, the heart of the old city. The location is perfect for access to all the historical places and the sprawling restaurant/bar/bakery areas. A foodies delight! Lots and lots of empanadas! Tuna, pork, cheese, spinach... We sat for a while in one of the many alfresco restaurants and cafeterias enjoying a cold refreshing drink and watched as the two Dutch ladies appeared, having just completed their day of walking. Aside from them, the few pilgrims we saw were all newbies, complete strangers.
A most satisfying afternoon's delight was just getting our clothes machine-washed and dried. Simple things become so meaningful on the Camino.
It feels good to be here. A very beautiful and grand old city. So much more to explore. Tomorrow.
Fun to see “Buzz Light Year” make an appearance.