Jenny always appears indefatigable, but today was her special day. Today the dear lady, who had been up late posting photographs for our blog (which was way behind schedule due to lack of wifi in previous accommodation), was floating in a different dimension sleeping the sleep of the innocent. So I lay for two hours past dawn to ensure she was not disturbed. And when she woke, she was hungry. Found a lovely street setting in a coffee shop about a block away and had the normal breakfast. Then back to the room for teeth and we were away, the cathedral and the university were our targets.
Walking the streets still gave us a buzz, looking at all the historic structures and streets, a post card in every direction. The cathedral was constructed form 1200 and took 400 years. And during that time the Romanesque design was overtaken by Gothic architects. And the two contrasting characteristics are very evident. So much intricate design work and ornamental stone carved facias with carved columns. Where Gothic takes over the use of barbed spear like structures present. And in at least in one place a beautifully intricate symmetrical doorway has been partially obstructed with the building of a plain straight block wall.
Inside the cathedral we took the pensioner discount at the ticket booth at the entry and escaped for less than $EU20 for a tour that was conducted via QR code/phone. (How do people survive without phones anymore?) The building is massive with ceilings incredibly high and adorned with intricate carving, moulding and paintings. As we walked through the old cathedral we were amazed at the complexity and overwhelmed by our recognition and appreciation of the enormous workload that would be required to facilitate and fulfil its creation. The effort and time to construct is beyond comprehension. And inside there are multiple chapels and altars, each seemingly with its own confessionals. The design reminded us of at least two other cathedrals in Rome and St Petersburg. I suppose the design was common to the significance and wealth of the congregation of the day.
Wandering around the university buildings was a particular delight, learning the history and observing modern day students using facilities that were first used by students 800 years ago. What we learned: the University of Salamanca was founded in 1218 by King Alfonso IX and is one of the oldest in the world in continuous operation, certainly the oldest in the Hispanic world. Of added interest is the fact that 200 years ago it was the place of choice for Irish priests in their studies which were disrupted in their own country. According to a young Mexican student with whom we spoke, almost 50 percent of students are international, a large number (at least in his degree) from China. This same student spoke of how carefully he had researched to select the best international university. Being fluent in English as well as Spanish, he had his pick equally of universities in the English speaking world. Salamanca won hands down!
At the end of the day, we shared a lovely dinner with Isabelle and another pilgrim David from Melbourne. Alfresco dining and lovely cuisine and a bottle of wine. As the mains were concluded and dessert on its way Marian appeared unexpected from a hostel adjacent to the restaurant and joined us. A very pleasant surprise. Interesting discussions in all directions before adjourning to another restaurant for ice cream and Isabelle and the other David 'partied on' with an overfilled tumbler of liquor, named "43" (apparently because it has 43 ingredients). Isabelle was in good form in spite of her injured foot. She intends (hopes) to walk again on Friday, as will David.
A breakfast was arranged with Marian (our final opportunity to see her before her departure) and we bid all good night.
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