Happy birthday Polly. A special day and you are very much in our thoughts.
Today at our evening’s accommodation we have no wifi and so whilst I can write my blog and post using the new SIM card, there will be no photos. May revisit this page and add some tomorrow.
Up and at it by 0600 and we were away around 0730. We managed coffee (delicious) and toast in our apartment before setting off. Our track took us north through the streets and was a two kilometre gradual uphill gradient to begin, followed by a 3 kilometre uphill gradient, and the rolling hills thereafter across the vast plain. It was actually a very pleasant walking day.
We met a Latvian lady named Andre and for several kilometres enjoyed a chat while walking, followed by a shared coffee at a village 7 km away. My breakfast tortilla (potato and egg) was especially good. Following a quick coffee, our new friend departed at her preferred tempo which was significantly faster than ours.
On the way up another steep hill from the village we were passed by a lady from Hungary. She leaves the camino tomorrow evening as work beckons. Surprising after experiencing so many male pilgrims to find that today, the only pilgrims we encountered were these two solo females. In discussion with the Hungarian lady, she enthusiastically explained her delight at having just received a prestigious award for her photo of a ballerina which she was particularly proud to show us. The angle of the photo makes the ballerina look like a flower. It is indeed very beautiful. (She is a professional photographer.)
While my soreness in the leg slowed us, we still managed to cover the 18km in four hours, which included a 30 minute coffee break, so not altogether concerned for our speed. But if we were not inhibited we could surely crank the speed up.
Arriving at our accommodation was an unexpected surprise. We were greeted by the owner with a bottle of beer each (which meant that I enjoyed two bottles of beer since Jenny is not a beer drinker.) The accommodation is astonishing in its space and configuration. Whilst there is a bar and restaurant downstairs, there is an abundance of facilities - a kitchen fully equipped, a washing machine, complimentary breakfast trays, and a lounge with six seat dining and huge sofa with wall mounted TV. Amazing value for money.
But it’s the presentation and cleanliness which impress us the most. The place is immaculate. In every area the cleaning and maintenance is flawless. Despite this there are just two couples staying tonight. It appears the place once hosted buses etc but a relocation of the highway has truncated the place. Progress can be sad. The place provided extra rooms for guests.
We took advantage of the washing machine and are constantly surprised at how quickly the clothes dry when hung outside in the sun and breeze. Washing done, we reviewed our planning for the upcoming nights. Under 3 weeks remaining. But tomorrow night ends our time on the Via de la Plata, after which we take an obtuse left turn onto the Camino Sanabres and the mountainous region north of Portugal, the more challenging and scenic while less populated trek to Santiago. Strange feeling. We have been tracking such a long time, but suddenly we can feel the end looming.
Dinner tonight in the dining room with tables preset before our arrival. What a feast! A bottle of outstanding quality red wine (such sacrilege that we were unable to drink the entire bottle), a delicious bowl of 'real' vegetable soup, then fish, chips, salad and egg for Jenny and same for me except real meat, not fish. To end the meal a sweet and juicy orange. 25 euros total, worth every cent! Interesting chat with the two men at the neighbouring table. British on motorcycles touring Portugal and Spain. And yes, they had avidly followed the coronation! A quick update here re tonight's clients. As we feasted, a party of probably six biciclinos (peregrinos - pilgrims on bicycles) arrived. So heartening to see the place getting the clientele it deserves.
An early night in preparation for an early start tomorrow. The days are cooler now, around 26C, but it can still be a bit uncomfortable after midday in the open plain without any shade, so an early start gets us some extra cool time. Cooler weather forecast for the remainder of the week, down to a high of about 19. A walker's delight!
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