We departed the hotel at 7:30 and headed off in the semi-dark. It was cool and very clear so pleasant walking in the province of Andalucia. There were many beautiful horses as you may expect and fencing around paddocks was 2.5 metres high and covered in shade cloth. Large, boisterous dogs (including German Shepherds) ensured ultimate security. The temperature remained perfect with a pleasant coolness in the air until a little town (Lebrija) 12km away where we stopped for breakfast (cafe con leche, zuma de naranja y tostada y jamon, queso, tomate - typically Spanish) There was a small concern when we thought we’d lost our yellow arrows but in true Camino form, they found us when we least expected it.
Then on through fields of crops, principally wheat. But some grape and the consistent olive. There was a surprising number of vehicles and joggers/walkers/cyclist along the dirt road in the heat of the midday sun. We stopped at a park area beside a lake where young children were enjoying some leisurely kayaking and we created a lunch from what little we had. The oranges were notable being fresh and juicy.
Leaving the lake was after midday and the temperature began to rise at the same time as the trees disappeared, only to be replaced by ploughed fields. The areas are unfenced, embracing the road, no space wasted. Again there were vast fields of wheat, but also other vegetable crops I could not identify. One though which I had never seen before in such abundance was silverbeet, covering huge fields and of extremely high quality. This area has the luxury of irrigation and there is piping evident in the fields everywhere. But alas no shade.
The heat continued to increase and we came to an irrigation canal which was probably 4 metres above the surrounding land. We trudged on, our pace slowing unintentionally and our heat factor rising. We experienced false hope when there in the distance, like a little oasis in the desert, we could see a town which surely had to be ours. There it stood, luring us towards it. And we were happy to be lured, only to realise before too long, with deflated spirits, that it was not our destination. As we continued along our way, this wicked little town of Marismillas teased us dreadfully with its lingering presence. It refused to release us to our assigned route.
We walked a dusty road along a straight section for many kilometres, for probably 2 hours. Finally we found a recently planted olive grove and in spite of the heat, enjoyed the coolness under the tree for a 10 minute break. Then onwards over exposed hills again heavily cropped. Heat and dust. Finally came to a road which conveyed us to the town. After a long day, there to welcome us to town was a most enticing hotel. The beer was cold, the meals excellent and the world was once again a happy place. A few kilometres on and I could happily collapse into my bed, knowing I had achieved a 30km day on the camino with some additional meandering through town. Jenny as usual looked ready to do it all again right there and then. Out she went alone to explore the town. (Big parade tomorrow for Easter.) Then she dined in solitude in the hotel while I enjoyed a restful slumber.
For Kevin: I used 3 litres of water today and was parched at the end. I think I will carry 4 litres in future.
Sounds like quite the adventure! I'm glad you were able to find shade and a cool place to rest during your long day. And those fresh, juicy oranges sound delicious! It's always interesting to see the different crops and landscapes along the Camino. It's also wise to bring enough water, especially in the heat. Stay hydrated and enjoy the rest of your journey!
Wow the terrain looks so different than the Pyrenees and has that heat factor that I can feel just reading your tales. I did enjoy a Radler at the end of the day on my walk