(8 days Camino Augusta, 33 days Via de la Plata, now 1st day Camino Sanabres)
Sometimes life presents a special occasion, unsolicited, unexpected, it just happens. After over a month hiking plain and fields of abundant crops, today was different. And I had a personal revelation. I can walk slower.
We rose at 0600 and packed and had breakfast, yes coffee and toast downstairs in the large building of which we were the sole inhabitants. (Yep, once again, not another single person. So weird!) Then a walk from town and over the inevitable hills. The beautiful but perhaps monotonous fields of ploughed ground, the colour of the rich crops and pine forest. The air is cool, far more so than previous days. I was perspiring from the efforts afforded by the steep hills but the coolness of the air prevented the usual sweat-saturated clothing that I typically experience with walking.
The French men had commenced their day at a similar time and we could see them not far ahead, making good time as always. Eventually our dirt road track took us into wilderness area, no fences, just low scrub and grass. We went down a steep descent of shaley surface, slippery but with the poles no actual danger. Once down we progressed along a bitumen road and were presented with a totally unexpected vista. A lake or broad river winding for a good distance in both directions. The rocky gorge it dissects is magnificent. And then you realise the far bank holds walking tracks for the locals along sheer craggy escarpment. And where we are is actually a very high retaining wall. Two thousand years old and still solid. Ahead further is a Roman bridge looking as good today as when it was opened by the Roman lord of the time. A beautiful sight.
Across the bridge it was a surprise to discover Camino turns hard left into the craggy gaps in the rock. A narrow goat track launching pilgrims over boulders and down. The track took focus and the shiny surface of the rock appeared slippery, and indeed I probably would elect to find an alternative course if it was wet. But today is dry, the tread on our boots is sound, we have our essential hiking poles and we're good to go. We met a few local walkers but no other pilgrims. 'Trolley man' (one of the three Frenchmen) had no option but to take the road and one of the other two accompanied him. So only one of the trio took to the hill.
The drop off to the river was steep but the course not dangerous unless the weight of the backpack brought involuntary redirecting. We were careful, and that’s all that was required. Our course was stunningly beautiful winding along the rocky bank. Glimpses back to the Roman bridge also a delight. But up the steep track to the precipice was hard going, and my speed reduced to almost no forward speed, although the breathing and heart rate signalled the appropriate effort was being exerted. Jenny, as always appeared weightless and her energy effortless.
Atop the ridge were the red poppies and beyond magnificent vistas of the river and bridge. Behind us was a stone house ruin and beyond that a number more. They looked like a village of the Celtic era. What a surprise and what a magic experience. It was tough getting here but after a month transmitting plain land and hills this is so incredibly different and so rewarding, thank you Camino.
I sat on a large rock covered in moss and removed my shoes, their insoles and my socks, to let the air dry while I sat there in amazement at all before us. Jenny joined me but was more active rushing from one vista to the next. This is a place we could have stayed for the day but we have in excess of 25 km to cover and this surprise addition to the walk has slowed progress, but in the very best way.
From here we wound past derelict and demolished buildings and along a dirt track through scrub. Then a dirt road for kilometres again through farm fields and over steep hills. The roads become long and straight once more. Eventually from our elevated position, we could see two towns, one a village and the second a modest city. The second is our place tonight. A drink in the first village and again some drying of footwear before we tackled the final 7 km.
Our hotel is very ample and clean. Our pilgrim meal was nice and for sure our sleep will be readily achieved. The day has been challenging. Thanks Jenny again for doing my washing. My clothing seems incredibly heavy as it retains the perspiration of the day. Pleasingly tomorrow is short in order to better space the longer days ahead. Need to adequately prepare for the difficult onslaught of days that we face. Jenny has found accommodation in a little albergue in a small village 15km on the way. But as we get to bed our thoughts are of the wonders today has given us. Completely unexpected. Completely physically and emotionally demanding. And in the memory bank for a lifetime.
Today marked the end of Jim's Camino (from the previously mentioned group of three (affectionately referred to as 'Tom and Jerry' and Javier). With sudden massive pain issues in his foot, he has made the decision to abort his Camino after 700 km and is on his way home to the USA. Rather unfortunate as he had been travelling well and walking fast.
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