Today is the day for which we held some trepidation. The walk is broadly in three stages, 12 km to the foothills and a village where we can have breakfast, then ten kilometres to ascend to 1350 metres, followed by Stage 3, a ten kilometre downhill run to our night's destination. What could go wrong?
Dropped the back pack off to be taxied to our next destination and headed off on our next exciting episode. Thanks to yesterday's late afternoon efforts, we had no problem getting out of town. Two others, an Aussie and an Irishman were exiting simultaneously and we each went to our individual walking speed. Yes I was at the tail. Walked by a clear flowing river for several kilometres. Then we were directed to the road verge for several more kilometres but the traffic was very light. And without a backpack I was feeling pretty light myself. I was just carrying my water, a small amount of food for us both and a jacket in case it gets cold up the hills.
The track turned us to a dirt forest road and the scenery was a pleasant surprise with beautiful aged trees and grass and moss and stone houses and fences. This is a magnificent treat and the splendour distracts your awareness from the uphill gradient. We passed a church with a substantial cemetery, but no other infrastructure. Our course had us travelling over bridges to avoid the four lane motorway. There is a train line too but we only saw/heard a single train today. It is hard to grasp that we are trekking a wilderness just metres away from a bustling society.
Beautiful old trees and grass which looked like lawn. The trail again took us on a reasonably level surface but today one cutting that had been made centuries ago was between four and five metres deep. That’s a lot of shovelling. There is water flowing in many places and we had ample opportunity to practise our rock hopping. Now I don’t want to cast unsubstantiated aspersions, but I am pretty sure as I launched across the rocks someone was whistling ”Baby Elephant Walk”. Had to laugh at one crossing. I was fixated on selecting the best stones upon which to hop and for me I made great progress, until I looked to Jenny with a beam of pride, only to see her take a dry track around the pond. I was clearly not meant to be in ballet.
Made great time getting to the village of our breakfast venue. But then had a breakfast that was way too long, chatting with one of the other pilgrims (Garis) with whom we'd initially exited the town. No problem for Garis, he was travelling no further today. Exchanged some interesting stories though which caused the delay.
(A side note, received a message from 'David from Melbourne' later this evening, who, after a much longer walk, had arrived in that same village as Garis and was updated by the latter on our movements. David and Garis had last been in the 'same place, same time' three weeks ago. Lots of 'grapevine' info happens on the Camino.)
We had taken 2.5 hours to end Stage 1 but Stage 2 was the truly worrying part and we didn’t know how long it would take. Following the arrows we walked on the verge of a very rarely used road. That said, it is a really nice two lane road with metre wide verges and safety rails. The road ascends at a consistent angle for the entire way up the mountain. This makes travel relatively simple with a constant rate of effort. Beside the road on both sides are bright red and yellow striped poles, snow depth markers. Must be a lot of snow because they are almost 3 metres high. A little over half way up there were two cows loose on the road, nervous and looking to get back to the herd. Fast forward 20 minutes and two police on motor bikes came down the road, I presumed in relation to the cows. I waved to them as I do with all vehicles passing us, and the lead bike waved back, but number two initiated his flashing blue lights. We felt spoilt.
Reaching the top was via a Camino detour to a really old disused highway. It was not a great surface to walk on but we did have the place to ourselves. While on this road we crossed a double lane Roman bridge straddling a substantial stream cascading down. The bridge is in excellent condition but seems only used by a few occasional pilgrims or hikers.
Further down the valley are three modern bridges, the farthest in light use as a non-toll road and prior to that two other freeway bridges carrying multiple lanes of traffic through tunnels. We were told Spain is second only to Switzerland for mountains and tunnels. Beyond the bridges it was surprising to find a concrete walkway about two car widths apart and this took us over the highest point. No fanfare for the achievement so we sat on the roadside beside the Camino arrow and an old boot strung from the tree, and ate a row of chocolate each. But it was too cold to linger so we made haste and began our descent. After a couple of kilometres we came to a village and had a cold drink and platter. Then on again.
Again Camino had us walk on the road verge, which was fine as again there was little traffic. We were in a valley midway up a mountain, with roads and freeways along the valley floor. There are three villages along the way, the third our destination. Camino has to take a rough track away from the road but probably a couple of kilometres further than taking the road. Not much in the mood for the scenic option after 30km. Many more water courses and opportunities to puddle jump. Bit upset when we took a rapid descent and an even steeper ascent the other side. I mentioned to Jenny she had said no more ups, just downhill to the finish. I proposed to her this is the steepest 'descent' I have ever climbed.
Made it to our village and lodgings. Would never find these places without Jenny and her GPS device leading us. Nice comfortable but cold room. Jenny has done the washing. Early start tomorrow, I have the backpack back and it’s a 28km day, so will again test my patience and stamina.
Pilgrim dinner at the local bar and a '43' to conclude the meal, at the insistence of the bartender - and 'on the house'. (A very potent alcoholic drink - Isabelle's favourite.) The bartender insisted it would help me sleep soundly. She obviously doesn't know me, or else she would realise that especially after today's activities, sleep would come easily and swiftly, no matter what!)
A big and hearty congratulations to Sigmund also, who arrived in Santiago today. A mighty effort!
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