We launched from our accommodation immediately after breakfast. Straight down the main street to the base of a valley surrounded by mountains. The Camino guide said there are two options, the trail or follow the road. We didn't elect to go on the road but that's where the course led us, reassured by a yellow arrow. The valley bottom came soon enough and we crossed an old bridge to begin another ascent. The mountain sides are steep and in the valley base a river runs with much cascade and white water. We saw a couple of houses in the base beside the river, access to which I cannot imagine.
The climb was unrelenting and we continued about an hour until we reached a "y" intersection and signposts to villages which were not listed in our guidebook. Sudden concern that something was not quite right. Evaluate options. The unmentioned villages ahead were a couple of kilometres (uphill). The road to the left lead to the freeway where pedestrians are not welcome. Then there was Option 3, go back down and start again. Some colourful words helped focus. We immediately eliminated Option 3. Option 2 seemed not to be a real option. And so we settled on walking to the unknown villages with the hope of finding a way ahead.
Then something very odd happened. Barely had we made our decision and turned towards our intended route when a car pulled up beside us. It was the only car we'd seen and it appeared out of nowhere. And it was the Civil Guardia. Our guardian angels. Basically, they told us what to do. They pointed down the track telling us to head "that way". Of course we followed their instructions and there we found ourselves on the old freeway, no traffic, safe, secure and serene. Basically, it turned out to be 'Option 4' and it was a good one. It was an incredibly pleasurable walk.
Eventually we came to an old tunnel, which itself was a unique experience. We walked through on foot what had previously been intended for vehicles. A little bit of unique history. Only one other cyclist shared it with us. Rather an eerie place with water trickling down the sides and an illuminating light each end. It was about 400 metres in length and we savoured every step that we took.
After about an hour and a half we were across the mountain and in the province of Galicia, leaving the province of Castille y Leon behind. This is our final province of four, which meant time for another celebration! And so we celebrated, quietly, all alone, on top of our little mountain, looking down, munching on a few pieces of chocolate and nuts, our solitary celebratory feast.
The final ten kilometres were less interesting and more frustrating as we consulted our little guide book each time we came to a village, only to find numerous annoying little inaccuracies. And to top it off, as we pulled into our destination town feeling both relieved and elated at our arrival, the Camino started to play tricks by teasing us with a number of mileage markers that after almost two solid days of walking actually tacked on 7 kilometres instead of reducing! (15 May:- 222.461 km; Today:- 229.698km) Of course we were horrified!
No problem, everything actually ended on a rather happy note, as I was able on the way to our lovely (albeit basic) hotel accommodation, to purchase from a shop enroute, new shoe laces to replace mine that had broken just this morning, along with new inner soles and socks to replace my mine which also have worn through. Another successful day on the Camino.
Thank you for sharing the beautiful panoramas of Galician country and keep enjoying the superb lentils Jenny.
Glad David is eating good Spanish beef too.
Montse and Alfie
The days and adventures are surely mounting.