Day 48 Laza 17.05.23

Breakfast at the hotel then with a day of 36 km ahead of us, we opted for a taxi partway to reduce the strain on my leg. As we progressed the view was exceptional. It appeared as though we were in an aircraft looking down upon the mountains in all directions as far as our eyes could see. It was all too much and our emotions overrode our good sense. We hastily halted the taxi and alighted. We had only travelled about 10 km and faced a big day of walking. But this is what the Camino is all about. We were back in the elements enjoying the best of what the Camino has to offer. The views today were stunning, the best yet. We gazed out in awe over an amazing lake that filled the spaces between rugged mountains. We were on top of the world looking down on creation. And it was surreal. The road was paved and lacked traffic, a pilgrim’s dream. The gradient was pleasant, the experience incredible.

Eventually the trail descended quite steeply to the valley base where we found a village, name of Campobecerros. It was a good size but with narrow crooked streets between the village buildings. The skill of a delivery vehicle driver who faced the dilemma of manoeuvring through the narrow passage, artfully dodging reckless pilgrims (not us) and their backpacks that carelessly littered the street, was admirable. We had coffee in a cafe, the first ‘instant’ ever served on our camino. The owner was proud to show off her fire drum in her cosy bar, and it more than adequately heated the space. By some clever act the heat was conveyed also in the wall which felt comfortably warm. With buildings so close together there is restricted sunlight, a design forced presumably by the location in a steep valley. An overpass connects buildings opposite sides of the street. Family members? Or just friendly neighbours? I wondered who could live here, isolated and freezing much of the year, but clearly there is a reasonable population, involved in forestry and farming the alpine pastures. The climb out was predictably steep. We must be improving our fitness levels, the climb no longer seemed daunting as we passed by a workman whippersnipping the undergrowth around recently planted pines.

We walked through another village and this was sad. Abandoned homes, mostly solid granite block, falling into disrepair. It appears the buildings have windows broken, then the extreme weight of terra cotta roof tiles forces them to collapse inwards, and nature takes its course.

Then it was up and down endlessly as we absorbed the beauty nature provides. And the air here is crisp and clean. You can taste the difference. Tranquility and purity, a perfect combination.

We later came to more burnt out forests. A bicycle pilgrim described the view as extraordinary in comparison to what he had witnessed the previous year, with greater exposure of mountain vistas a consequence of fire induced deforestation. The fire was absolute. Burnt trees are just ash. A precious few trees had survived, the bases burnt but the upper branches of birch and pine trees green with promise of survival. Each valley, the rail and separate high speed rail, roadways, freeways and so many fire breaks. So much is revealed up here. I would not have wanted the bulldozer job clearing broad strips on extremely steep slopes laterally and horizontally.

We trekked for several hours following the mountain crest road, a narrow bitumen car road and later dirt. I think there were two cars all day. A self serve bar with honesty box in a tiny village provided a welcome opportunity for a rest and refreshment, surprisingly chilled.

Our accommodation in Laza is on the third floor of a pension and there are many many steep stairs. What a way to end a big walk. A subsequent stroll around town of course meant testing the stairs a few more times, but the pilgrim’s meal we sourced in a local cafe/bar was outstanding - real beef for me and superb lentils for Jenny, along with salad and top quality soup. We continue to feel on top of the world!