This stage of the Camino was presented in 'The Gronze' guide as another long one with a substantial climb. So we chose to tackle it in two parts, not wanting too many consecutive long days. It was demanding but exhilarating. We commenced with about 8 kilometres in chilly conditions but were rewarded by magnificent scenery and waterways. There were some lovely villages demonstrating the pride the residents have in their homes. The floral displays that adorn the houses continue to amaze and delight us. If only it were possible to replicate these colourful and artistic exhibits of nature back at home. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately, depending on perspective) the climate is less conducive at home.
A few tiny hills and then the heavy climb happened. Quickly it progressed from steep to very steep and then a cross-country trek across bare rock, shale and broken ground. After around 15 minutes we were on forest trails and the climb was less brutal. One peak after the next, false hopes were the norm, and this continued over an hour and a half.
Eventually we reached the top and found a village that was a strange mixture of inhabited homes and buildings in ruins. Here we found a most unusual cafe with sound speakers playing loud French classical music and offering refreshments. The place is unusual by way of its adornment - scallop shells dated and signed by pilgrims past cover the walls, the ceilings, every possible nook and cranny. Thousands of them. We sat for a while outside, listening to music that was too loud by far, soaking up the sun, sharing a table and a lively chat with a Dutch couple travelling parallel to us - Febe and Andre. At the ages of 64 and 75 respectively, they are ultra fit and move fast.
Then onward. More beautiful scenery but the walking for me a bit of a strain following repetitive stress caused by unevenness of terrain. Our accommodation came and it was wonderful. We were delightfully surprised to find we were sharing a beautiful old stone house with just Febe and Andre. They had the downstairs, we the top floor. Down to the shop to buy provisions - a bottle of wine, snacks, dinner and breakfast. This was our perfect opportunity to experience a house of this sort and the quaint little deck protruding from the front was just crying out for a bottle of wine and end of day conversation. We were happy to oblige.
What a beautiful little house at the end of a hard day! Xxx Deb
Shale makes for very tough walking. Wow, that’s a lot of shells.