A good sleep but I am suffering with both legs and the prospect of a 32km trek today, a hot day, on a track reportedly poorly signposted and most often along busy streets, was sufficient to convince us to spend some time in Las Cabezas de San Juan before heading to Utrera. This decision was reinforced by our lack of wifi (hence no ability to forward plan) and a local who strongly advised that GPS was essential for this stage.
It was not a difficult decision, as Las Cabezas has warmed our hearts and we’re intrigued to observe more of the festivities in the town. It is a very clean and tidy town of 16K souls, each of whom seems pleased to share their town and help in any way. The place is humming with energy and excitement as locals prepare and preposition for the week of Holy Week processions. Children beaming with pride, adults adorned in immaculate adornments and the elders in their suits and finery. Symbolism in the form of yellow palm fronds are a valued and cherished possession while the elders have the fronds about 2 metres long and braided the full length. The roadway between the cathedral and the church is garnished with red carpet. Along the way of the procession the owners of numerous buildings have adorned their terrace railings with covers of maroon velvet. These are mostly plain but the centre pieces are embroidered in gold. Those watching from above are in suits and finery. We were privileged to watch one parade with requisite band and the full entourage of alter boys with church candles and cross heading the final component of elders and a priest in his flowing priestly attire.
We walked around the town and were greeted with warm smiles by the locals who were all super friendly towards us. An amazingly warm and welcoming community. We would happily stay here much longer.
Being Easter Sunday most businesses were not working. When we went to the town taxi ramp we couldn’t help but notice it was full of cars not taxis. So Jenny asked a coffee shop owner for advice and he swung immediately into action, inviting us to sit while he found a cab. He darted across to the town square and approached number of people before returning with another very friendly and reassuring man. Still more "to-ing and fro-ing" and after about ten minutes a lovely man arrived in his private car and used it to transport us to our destination. How good is that?
In our new town of Utrera we are again surrounded by community members dressed in their finery and headed to church for celebrations. We followed them out of interest and folk were emerging at every corner to converge at the church. Interesting about the conviction and dedication they have for their faith. But it is so different from what I previously experienced. No hot cross buns and chocolate eggs here. But their deep conviction is palpable.
In the afternoon we explored to refine the direction of Camino, that we found on an innocuous street leading into an unappealing industrial estate. Here there was play equipment and playgrounds for the young, including overgrown football field, but completely desolate - no people. Utrera did not win our hearts.
The only photos we have to share here are of Las Cabezas as we realise we actually took none during our time in Utrera.
Well done guys you are doing well in what seems trying conditions. I have a quote from John Steinbeck that I often reflect on when my legs are hurting, “ A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. “ Take care
Sorry you’re legs aren’t doing so well, the private car would have been great. Can’t imagine how hot it will be this summer if it’s already this hot now. Enjoying your updates and photos.