We started our day with breakfast at the bar of our pension and were pleased to be able to share the occasion with Febe and Andre. We won't see them now for a number of days.
Our walk is on the roadside, a perfect surface on a very quiet road. Our final three kilometres of walking yesterday covered the climb that would have otherwise faced us first thing today and so we started almost immediately on the downhill. Which continued throughout the day. It sounds counterintuitive, but the downhill is a bit challenging, and while not complaining, we have become accustomed to a balance of up and down.
Our track began through farmland and woods, very beautiful but not more so than previous days. Unusually though there were more villages, the first few without much human activity. After a decent duration of walking we came across a cafe and took the opportunity to rest outside with a 'cafe con leche'.
Some people like to 'people watch'. This was our opportunity to 'pilgrim watch'. As we sat, a number of pilgrims passed by and there were so many that the day started to feel a bit like a dress rehearsal for our big arrival in Santiago. Quite a contrast with days not so long ago where we could walk all day and not see a single other pilgrim.
Amongst the pilgrims was David from Melbourne. He joined us and we enjoyed the catch-up, not having seen each other since Zamora. Eventually we rose to go and David as well. For a while I walked ahead while Jenny conversed with David about all things related to walking and hiking and David's big Himalayan adventure which he will embark upon next year. Then we continued alone and chatted. How can we walk for 6 weeks and still have chatter you may ask. No, it is not the same stuff discussed five minutes ago and indicative of what you may be thinking!
Eventually we seemed to have reached the outskirts of Ourense as there were constant dwellings and buildings and a plethora of bars and cafeterias. These evolved to an extensive industrial area before again a few kilometres later returning to residential. We stopped for another break at a little cafeteria along the way, totally unnecessary but we did anyway. Whilst there we were befriended by an unusual lady called Sonia who provided us with information and tips to enhance our stay in Ourense. Yes, we are now Whatsapp buddies!
We have been spoilt by previous cities with their ancient buildings and streets, all surrounding a conspicuous cathedral. That doesn’t describe Ourense. Perhaps the industrial estate aided to reduce our expectations. The closer we drew towards Ourense, the more it seemed just a dirty big city. Of course it was later that we started to fully appreciate its qualities and its uniqueness. Especially on a Saturday night it seems, the inner city comes alive with people out socialising and having fun. Children included. Until late into the night.
The city of Ourense is in a river valley. It is where the Romans found hot springs and we know how much they enjoyed their leisurely hot baths! The Cathedral is grand, but surrounded closely by other tall buildings. The Plaza Mayor in Ourense is unusual being on a slope. The squares that these important plazas are on are normally flat areas of land. I suppose it clearly demonstrates that the city of Ourense is hilly. Very much so! The streets are loosely aligned but not in straight lines so it’s a bit of zigging and zagging to find the way.. The buildings are far from pristine. Many are facades of the old buildings gutted behind. Others are in poor condition. Many are clearly unoccupied. But despite that the populace is out and about in droves.
Our accommodation is a duplex on the second and third floors, the bedroom and bathroom upstairs and the rest down. But we have a washing machine, and that makes us very happy. A very comfortable and well located apartment. Rest day tomorrow and we already have some idea as to how we will spend our day! Looking forward to it immensely!
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