Day 55 Bandeira 24.05.23

Today was the last of our walking days of more than 20km. Breakfast and away down a country lane between paddocks. I am constantly amazed the stone walls are everywhere. Makes me wonder if the farmers built them or if travelling stone masons were contracted to do the work. I say this because after hundreds of years they still stand, along with buildings, and all planted without mortar. Were all farmers gifted in stonemasonry?

We of course started with a hard uphill climb. Under the VFT track and highways. Then along the countryside that is simply picturesque, again. This area is special, and there seems to be so much natural vegetation. I can’t understand why there is so little cultivation in a clearly fertile and wet area. Earlier days and weeks, farmers cultivated to the centimetre up to the road edge, but not here. Really enjoyed the forest areas, and the long stretches of walking the trail in shade.

Had coffee at a stop along the way and returned to transit the highway briefly before returning to the tranquility of the bush. We went down a valley to find stone bridges, not Roman but impressive structures across a very steep ravine. At the head area was a real McCoy Roman foot bridge (Ponte de Taboada) in excellent condition but likely rarely noticed on the quiet and infrequently used Camino/hiking trail. But we enjoyed it immensely. Across the bridge and up was a small village of probably a dozen stone buildings, all bar one appearing now abandoned. Sad as you can see by the quality of workmanship in the stone that this place was meant to endure. The one inhabited building is a very special looking place with expansive garden, an elongated home of stone but modernised with big outdoor areas, and two small yappy dogs. As we walk this Camino, we often wonder how it must feel for inhabitants living in villages where 50 per cent, or 70 per cent or even much more of their surroundings is in ruins. With so many of the older Spanish stone buildings derelict and for sale, how good it would be to see them renovated with the villages come alive once again.

Further on we continued to climb and we were in fabulous countryside with houses in excellent condition. This area seems to be far better maintained than previous regions. When pondering why, Jenny opined it may be a good place to live and commute to Santiago that is just 30km away by road. A beautiful area and the day is once again clear skies, sunshine but not too hot, perhaps low 20C. A sign advised a coffee shop 200 metres up a shady lane so took the opportunity and found the person with the tape measure was way out, our distance was indeed much further, probably a kilometre, but the food and drink welcome.

Then we continued through a large town (Silleda) and along a footpath beside the highway before Camino again took us into the countryside along a quiet road. The pressure on my feet intensified. I imagine the bruising at the base of my right heel is the result of an amended walking gait, hence my signature limp. The muscle in my right calf has wasted and I struggle to bear any weight from my body on my toes. Consequently every stride strikes hard on the heel. That’s our prognosis. Regardless we ventured forth and arrived at our accommodation. By this stage the pain was excruciating. I hate to sound like a wimp but I am seriously starting to question my ability to continue walking. Luckily the room is very pleasant as well as inexpensive, so I lay down and rested my foot after Jenny prepared me a hot soaking bath. Yes, the luxury of a bath once again just when I needed it most.

Once more, throughout the course of the day, we seemed to walk alone. No other pilgrims. Although one sole older female pilgrim sat down to breakfast this morning at a similar time to us and we chatted briefly with a German couple at the last coffee stop. (A bit challenging. He had zero English and hers was limited.) We know there are more out there, but they are few and far between.

Drinks with our new Dutch friends Febe and Andre was a much welcome treat at the end of our day, after some essential rest. We got to know them a little bit more and the more we learn about them, the more we like them. And once again we met up with the Scottish group of six who we welcomed warmly (along with Febe and Andre) as they arrived in town, passing by our bar. Consisting of the male family members of a very large family - father (aged 73), four sons and one son-in-law, the group are on a boys only bonding adventure. Love their cheery, cheeky smiles and their chatter and admire the solidarity within the family. From two days back, they have matured in their Camino savvy-ness, now equipped with backpacks, water and sustenance. But funny to see their oversized suitcases in the lobby of our shared accommodation.

We are now about 34 km from Santiago, with two equally split days of 17 kilometres, pretty much all downhill and very cruisy. But with my current increasing pain crisis, walking tomorrow seems unlikely.