Day 57 Santiago de Compostela 26.05.23

Good sleep and alarm at 0600 had us excitedly hopping. We set off at 0700, after discovering the downstairs brekky bar did not open till 0800. We weren't going to wait. So we opted for optimism and with no clear indicators of the way ahead, we took to the road. 17 km to Santiago the sign said. It was cold and windy with solid cloud obscuring the early morning sunshine and warmth. The traffic increased with too many trucks and buses and we could not find our camino arrows. It was not pleasant. We walked several kilometres before we reached an open bar and ducked in there for coffee and toast. We ordered, sat down, began our brekky and discussed our options. My heel was causing severe pain and with 13 km remaining I made the tough decision to let Jenny continue alone while I taxied ahead. Disappointing to not complete the final day of walking but realistically I felt the prior 1000 plus km would suffice.

So, this is the uncanny thing.... while we sat and talked, no other pilgrims in sight, suddenly in walked Isabelle. I really don't know who was the most surprised. It was deja vu of the very beginning of Day 1 out of Seville, when we had met Isabelle for the first time, at a little brekky bar a similar distance into our walk. Totally unplanned and not even the suggested bar mentioned in the guide. It is strange, some of the things that happen on the Camino. I think everyone has their own little stories.

From here I will tell my personal story and then Jenny can add her own experiences.

Had a pleasant taxi ride, right up to the front door of our apartment in spite of the narrow alley ways and crowds. I managed to check in to our apartment early. From the front door you can touch the cathedral in 4 steps. And accordingly all the cafe and restaurant and trinket places surround us. Our accommodation has a dining/lounge/kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and laundry. All extremely tiny but nevertheless very nice. And the number one bonus is that it is on the ground floor! So rare for us.

I wandered to the Post Office (Correos) to procure the packages we had despatched to ourselves. Even managed a haircut and shave just metres away from our accommodation, so feeling a little more domesticated now. Then I waited in the square outside the cathedral for Jenny and Isabelle to arrive.

Jenny's tale

The final day, walking into Santiago, was not at all what we had expected. It completely contrasted with the Camino Frances entry, which is riddled with pilgrims and endless streetwalking. For us, there was not a single other pilgrim on the track! And almost right up to this 'other entrance' of the town and cathedral, it was lush and green. The walk was delightful, temperature cool with overcast skies, with a hint of rain (just a few specks.) And walking and chatting with Isabelle the entire way, the time passed quickly.

David-from-Melbourne had arrived the day before and was there to greet us in front of the cathedral. Couldn't see David but later learned he had positioned himself at the entrance to the plaza on the opposite side, vigilantly awaiting our arrival. A phone call rectified the situation. The crowds of pilgrims were typical. But the cathedral was vastly more impressive. The last time we saw it, ugly scaffolding covered the front facade. Today we were able to appreciate the beauty and grandiose features of the building. We did the obligatory picture poses before heading to the pilgrim office to collect our Camino Compostelas. Another interesting change, a very positive one. The entire process has been expedited by a combination of COVID and technology. We scanned a QR Code, and completed an electronic copy of our applications before queueing for service. But queueing time was reduced and we were in and out very quickly, compostelas in hand. Once again we reflected on how essential that little mobile phone device has become in our modern lives.

From there we walked to a restaurant close by, chosen by David-from-Melbourne, where we celebrated with a glass of wine/beer and a meal. We were the last to leave the restaurant and as we did, a few more drops of rain fell upon us. Our entire Camino until today has been rain free. A farewell for now to Isabelle and David and off we went to a very nice, tiny little apartment complete even with washing machine.

A later highlight was mass in the cathedral. It was packed. All pilgrims. A number of announcements were made requesting other visitors to leave as the service was intended only for pilgrims. We were the privileged people. It was our time. It was interesting looking around at the crowd and noting that there truly was no specific demographic. There were old people, young people, in between people. There were different nationalities, different personalities, some in groups, some solo, some limping, others standing tall. All just had one thing in common. They looked like pilgrims. They wore the tell-tale clothing, Camino trinkets, footwear, facial expressions, injury dressings. Their excitement and pride in their personal achievements was clearly evident and wonderful to see. The cathedral was packed and when the seats were filled, people crowded around the pillars, sat on the floor or simply stood where they hoped for just a glimpse of the action. The service was warm and welcoming and entirely inclusive.

The highlight of the mass of course was the swinging of the lamp (Botafumeiro) full of smoky smelly incense. As anticipated, it was an amazing and intense moment in time. All eyes were fixed on the large shiny object as it swung slowly and steadily, stretching out above the crowds, back and forth on either side. Photography was not allowed during the mass and everyone respected this regulation. However, once the Botafumeiro came out, so did the mobile phones. No one held back. Everyone wanted to capture this special event forever. It is a moment I will always treasure in my own personal memory banks.

It has been a long walk. To reach the end is an experience that is difficult to describe. At the moment I'm numb for words. The beginning now seems like the distant past. But so many incredible memories have been captured throughout. As well as so many fabulous people who we have met along the way. Some will always simply remain fond memories, others will continue in our lives, firm friends forever. To have walked this Camino with David has been an unforgettable experience. Of all the people on the Camino David has been the most persevering and determined. He suffered injuries and pain but refused to cave in. He has been an inspiration from beginning to end. As well as the perfect walking companion. David epitomises what the Camino is all about, in so very many ways.

The video below of the botafumeiro was taken by David-from-Melbourne, who was kind enough to share it.

And suddenly there it was