A luxuriating stay in a semi-expensive hotel and we were reluctant to leave. Sleep in to 6am then the indulgence of breakfast before embarking on the final leg of our Via Augusta. It has been a rocky start, granted, but as we wind down this section of our journey, we realise the Camino is actually equipping us with renewed energy and vitality. We are optimistic for what lies ahead.
Out the door by 8:30, our latest start yet, and we were greeted with a serene day - a mystical sheet of cloud discreetly blanketing the sun to soften our way and lift our spirits.
The town has a fortress atop the hill, evidence of the ancient Roman civilisation where countless untold stories tease our imaginations. And a number of other old buildings, particularly down by the river. Photos can explain better. The yellow arrows directed us to the river and below a bridge decorated in mosaic tiles, a mighty effort.
The track followed the river which was shallow and still, a consequence of the long drought. But the trail was a good surface and the track level. We again came across sizeable buildings beside the river and these had clearly harnessed the river I imagine for water wheels. Sad to see them in ruin but nice to experience what we saw and marvel at the ingenuity of past generations.
Many kilometres later we crossed a bridge and the trail followed a water canal, which was all but dry. Our walk was incredibly pleasant and we chattered non-stop from start to finish.
We entered Seville via the University and there was a sudden transformation to our surroundings. There were trams, trucks, freeways, fast cars and people. It was an instant switch from countryside to city. We suddenly felt almost claustrophobic without the freedom of the open spaces.
We had a coffee break at the first coffee shop that presented itself to us and rejoiced in our achievement. We then trekked the remaining distance to the city centre (old town) and our accommodation.
The city is vibrant and bustling. The Holy Week festivities have taken a strong grip it seems on the entire city. This became increasingly more evident after we had settled into our accommodation.
Our accommodation is a large Spanish home letting out six self contained rooms. A very old building and faithfully authentic. Jose, our host, has zero English but he proudly uses his phone to translate. A very smiley man, he explains it is his family home and upstairs lives himself, his wife, children and nephews, plus two dogs and their cats. Rented rooms are on level 2 so he has the next three floors up to a rooftop terrace. The street outside is large enough for a single car and the alleys leading to it half the size.
At the end of the street is a church. In fact, there is a multitude of churches throughout the old town. Once settled and freshened up we grabbed our Pilgrim passports and attempted to take them to the cathedral to be stamped. However, by this time every possible exit was blocked by masses of people, marching bands and strangely clad figures caught up in simultaneous processions. We tried to forge a way through in every direction but it was impossible. Eventually we resigned ourselves to the fact that our mission would have to wait till morning. Our endeavours to reach the cathedral had failed. We observed the processions as best we could and then retreated to our little Spanish haven.
The bandsmen were in deep blue coloured suits adorned with gold and matching peak hats. The members ranged in age from mature men to small children, but all in matching uniform. Drums and brass instruments acted like a draw for all. Then appeared the accompanying religious groups fully robed. On their heads were peaked hats that covered the face to the chest, just two holes for the eyes. On most the peak stood erect, about one metre above the head. However, there were a number that wore the hat with the peak folded to the back so with full face cover but no peak. These robes gave total anonymity except for the indiscretion of the participants' shoes. Some of the robes were white, some blue, others black - separate clusters. All had religious symbols adorning, crosses, communion emblems.
There was great excitement and locals were in suits with ties and Sunday besties for the occasion. The younger members were also smartly dressed, with the tourists appearing the dress down group. (And the pilgrims - all two of us - the most 'dressed down'!) This is the first place we have been in our travels in about a week and a half where there are masses of tourists.
We finished our evening with dinner in a cafe on a footpath in an area at the edge of old town, observing the swarms of people. A fascinating study.
As we reflected to ourselves on our Camino from Cadiz to Sevilla, a particular note to us was the fact that throughout our entire week leading up to this point we had only crossed paths with one single other pilgrim - Alistair.
What can we expect beyond Sevilla as we edge closer and closer to Santiago? What does the Camino have in store for us? Time will tell.
Back to our room for an early night.
Fascinating time in Sevilla, great insite into the city...thank you. Great to see you both smiling as well. J n D xx