1 have still not adjusted to the timings for things in Spain. Go to bed at 10pm and realise two hours later the locals don’t begin to head to bed before midnight and they love to chat on the way and of course not worrying about door closing etc as no-one would be in bed this early.
Our day began with preparation for our day’s trek. The stuff sent forward meant more pack space which simplified things. Packed 2 litres of water for the 20km journey and used 800ml. Breakfast was provided at 7:30 and we enjoyed coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice, yoghurt and toast. Champion. Finished, brushed teeth and out the door by 8:00 that is still barely twilight.
The air is cool but without the arctic breeze from yesterday. Gloves helped a lot to keep warm as we walked from town. Passed a high tower with doorway but no other infrastructure so not too sure what it once was, presumably a city gate but our readings indicate the town wall was hundreds of metres further in the town, so not sure its derivation.
The cultivation began immediately with a variety of crops, principally olives, wheat and oats. The initial few kilometres traversed hills. There are now three things I don’t appreciate with Spanish hills. Since a few days ago my least favourite is going over mongrel hills, the heart breaker at the end of a long, hot and dusty day, and which if it were just one degree greater, would demand the use of abseiling equipment. The second thing I don’t like with Spanish hills is the crest of each hill, as it never is. You struggle to reach and clear the crest, only to find it’s misled you, there is another and often another and another. The third thing is the ability of Spanish hills to appear flat when in fact they are ascending. The eyes tell you one thing but your legs tell the truth. Today we didn’t have the mongrel hill, but plenty of the other two.
There were a lot of farmhouses, each well kept and showing pride. The area is cultivated and crops grow and it appears aged orchards of olive and almond are making way for grape. In some places grape and olive shared the same paddock. Coffee at a small village was nice and the whole town it seems was out to have breakfast and a loud chat. Not certain how a group of 6 - 8 is able to talk simultaneously at full volume and appear to derive so much enjoyment from the conversation.
Walking on, nice dirt road past pig pens and more olive and grape until we greeted two other unknown pilgrims at a crossroad. Likely catch them another day but that’s all for now.
The land ceased being crops and returned to what I imagine is natural vegetation. Going by the high barb wire popped fencing visitors are not expected. The fields rambled across hills with some buildings, which appear of military style design. The only farming here is grazing cattle. After about a kilometre the cropping restarted and we came to some ruins, two of substantial proportion homesteads which are breaking down (mud brick). A smaller farm house is abandoned but in much better condition. Passed another two pilgrims but didn't see them for the remainder of the day.
Lost the yellow arrows so invented the track for the final stretch. With the destination in clear sight, was not too concerned at this stage, although Jenny managed to record it all on video (below). Found our town, found the arrows again and found the accommodation. Right on the Camino as promised! Five hours trek to cover 20 km including two 30 minute breaks on the way. Guess that proves I am back in the game and can sorta keep up with Jenny again. The pains have abated. Yay team!
Dave…your pack looks so much like ‘normal’ now! Well done on the culling. The description of ‘hills’ is a tad disconcerting given the VdlP is almost always described as ’flat’. 🤔