La Plata Day 3 - Almaden de la Plata

We made an early start as we had a 30km walk and were anxious to avoid the heat of the day. The 6:00 am start gave us the opportunity for a quicker tempo for the two hours before dawn. Using headlamps, we followed the road for 16 km moving to the verge for passing traffic. It was a full moon so the light was quite reasonable. There were older planted trees beside the road but they were just dark outlines, the light wasn’t that good! We continued through the “forested’ area until 16 km, at which point we turned east onto a dirt track through woodland. It was an ideal spot and time for our first break, feasting on a packet of roasted almonds and a few squares of chocolate, when along came Matt (the Australian pilgrim). He joined us for a lengthy chat and perhaps it would have been prudent for us to get back on the track sooner, but it was nice to chat. More pilgrims came along and also exchanged small chit chat.

When we eventually arose, we entered a private property where cork trees were growing in well maintained grassland. They are a medium size tree with a medium size canopy which provided good shade. Some trees had been harvested with the cork barked stripped from the tree to about 2 metres. The remaining trunks were almost black.

Our path was a wide single vehicle gravel road in excellent condition. Walking through was a pleasure to the senses. But as ever the heat began to progressively intensify. The track ventured beyond the trees, the road deteriorated to rocky and we began the track uphill. We passed through groves of pine trees, these being long stemmed with a ball of needle on top. Attractive but offered no shade. And the heat cruelly sapped our energy. After about 5km we reached the base of a substantial hill which we were advised took an elevation of 100 metres. It had to be done of course. It was not a cliff but close enough to it. I had the concern that if I overbalanced the weight of my backpack would dominate the fall and nothing would stop me. I walked slowly and cautiously, resting often, and after about 20 minutes I emerged at the summit, greatly relieved.

We continued down the hill to the village in the valley below. It was equally steep descending, but psychologically reassuring. A very white town, clean and well maintained. Jenny chatted with a local lady and gent that were sitting in the shade at their front door. Two more enquiries later and we were at our hostel (it would be a hotel at home) and we found the room and surrounds very satisfactory. I immediately showered to reduce the body temperature and eradicate the accumulated perspiration. My clothing was sodden. This had been an incredibly demanding day.

Having been advised there were no services at all on this leg I had purchased extra water. I normally use 2-3 litres per day but this stage was labeled demanding and we knew it would be hot. Long story short, I bought 7 litres of spring water, gave 2 litres to Jenny and carried the rest. In the end we had collectively drained all 7 litres. Me mostly. I doubt I could have taken that last climb and steep hill if not adequately hydrated.

I lay on the bed to rest the weary legs and Jenny went out to see about some food (almost impossible to get after 4PM and before 8PM, especially on Easter Friday.) I lasted two seconds before I fell asleep but was awoken by Jenny upon her return from the restaurant with food. That was bliss! I had the best feed imaginable with giant pieces of steak and vegetable on a skewer. Haven’t had steak for so long. Jenny had fish and vegetables. Our hunger appeased, we fell asleep around 5:30PM and stayed that way until about 0600AM.

Even if wifi had been available (which it was not) there was no way I was in any fit state to write a blog. Hence this posting is 24 hours behind schedule. Feeling good for having the day behind us but also feeling fitter and stronger with every walk/climb undertaken. Life is good.

An early start pre-dawn on a main road definitely calls for head torches

It is unfortunate that photos can never do justice to how steep a climb is. This one was challenging.