A very welcome sleep in and pack up. Deposited 5kg weight to post office for our retrieval in Santiago in however many days it takes (we paid for 60). I sent my cold weather gear (not used to this point) and some clothes and bathroom gear (including the deodorant). Jenny shed some stuff but kept all warm clothing as she feels the cold far more than me. Then breakfast in town, back to retrieve our backpacks and a pleasant feeling the back pack is more manageable. Our host kindly called a cab that looks very much like a private car and has no markings or meter, but it was nice riding in the leather comfort of a Volvo. In discussion with our host I commented it is cooler today and there is for the first time, excessive cloud. I questioned the possibility of rain. He smiled and said it never rains here in April. In May maybe but never April.
Our journey took us across more rolling hills and the Camino was right beside the highway. The colourful crops returned and then some olive groves before we travelled between massive vineyards which continued unabated for many kilometres. First there were none, then there were so many grapevines. On top of a hill beside the road was the steel model of a bull, I imagine 10 metres high and owing to its location dominating the region’s skyline. I imagine it represents bull fighting, which seems to have a unique infrastructure with most major towns having large circular bull rings. No evidence they are still in use.
There were pigs grazing in an olive grove following the free range tradition for Iberian pigs. Apparently Iberian ham is the finest in the world and the breeding and raising of the pigs is precise and controlled. They come in colour shades varying from black to deep purple, some with white lines on the legs. They are a hairless and unique pig, having the ability to manufacture and store fat in the muscle which when combined with the acorn diet produces the best 'melt in your mouth' flavour and aroma of ham in the world. Their quality is attributed to a diet of acorns, eating more than 15kg of acorns each per day. Having not noticed an acorn tree my interest was aroused. The answer was simple, the cork tree produces acorns. And there are a lot of cork trees and the pigs free range in the orchards eating the acorns (they have keen sense of smell to find acorns.)
Our driver took us to the great fort of the town of Zafra and drove toward a stone castle that appeared in magnificent condition for its age. Apparently built by Spaniards in the 1400s. We can’t afford the cover charge to go inside the castle though, it was bought and developed by the Parador hotel chain, and they are reknowned for high quality and matching price.
Our hotel room is roomy and comfortable, very clean and provides a bathtub and one of those foot spas. (Jenny calls it a bidet.) We are located in the Plaza Grande immediately alongside the cathedral. It was very nice wandering the town and its surrounds. On a hill line in the near distance is a long and high escarpment of orange/brown stone giving the area an unexpected touch of ruggedness.
Met up with Isabelle again and had coffee together, then farewelled her as she will continue walking tomorrow whilst we have our extra night in Zafra. We may cross paths next in Merida where Isabelle is planning to stay two nights. Then back to a supermarket to buy provisions. A Galician pie (egg and potato), regional red wine from Extremadura, yoghurt, chips in case we don’t like the pie and lemon juice. All for 12 Euro. We dined in our room. Haven't seen the Fab Five Spaniards but suspect the loud noise from the nextdoor rooms might indicate their presence.
Now to wait up to call Ryan for his birthday. Happy birthday Ryan, thank you for 40 years of great memories.
Tomorrow is a rest day. Happily my back and leg have responded well today walking without a load, so am confident all will be well the day after tomorrow for a 20km trek. A good primer for the day after at 30km.
Accommodation comes with free breakfast so that will entice us up and about at a reasonable Spanish time.
I loved your blog & video, and the heads up on Zafra. Looks like a great spot for rest!!